We reached Bedford on the River Great Ouse on Friday 13th and moored on the visitor moorings. We were greeted by Mike & Debbie Gunn (nb Aquaholics) whose timing was perfect when they arrived on the bank straight ahead as we exited Bedford Lock. They walked along the bank to the mooring and joined us for a cuppa and gossip.

On Saturday we planned to reach the head of navigation at Kempston around 4 km (2.5 miles) above Bedford. The first task was to reverse from the far end of the visitor moorings shown in the photo to the near end where the photo was taken to fill up the water tank from the tap there.

In doing so I was nearly beheaded by the rope across the river at neck height which the canoeists had placed there to hold their slalom poles. It was invisible against the bright morning sky. Had I not been going so slowly the outcome could have been a lot worse. A quick phone call to the Environment Agency River Inspector produced a promise to visit and deal with the problem that morning.

We were worried about the height of some of the bridges as the water level was a little higher than normal but were assured by Mike & Debbie, who live in Bedford, that the first Railway Bridge was the lowest so I walked up the towpath with a tape measure and established we had 10cm (4") to spare. We subsequently discovered that the second railway bridge was actually lower - but more of that later.

Having checked there was no Strong Stream Advice in force with the automated phone line and by asking the inspector when I phoned about the rope we headed upstream. There was rather more current than I expected and with lots of trees hanging down it was not a pleasant journey and, had I realised in advance what it would be like I wouldn't have attempted it.

With considerable help from my brother Keith, who also lives in Bedford, I thought we would make it to the head of navigation at Kempston Mill. Unfortunately we were thwarted about 400m from the limit by an impossibly low bridge. I know the water was above normal levels but I don't think that accounts for all the lack of headroom. No doubt the Bedford & Milton Keynes Waterway Trust has this on the list of problems to be overcome. It's a shame that a modern looking bridge doesn't already have the required clearance.

We winded with difficulty in the strong current and with rather more excursions into the foliage of overhanging trees than I would have liked we reached the railway bridges in the centre of Bedford again. Knowing we had 10cm (4") of clearance when we headed upstream I wasn't too worried as we headed downstream but still approached the bridges cautiously and very slowly in reverse gear.

The highest part of our boat is the front of the main cabin so once that passed under the upstream railway bridge I was relieved, especially as there was now only millimetres of clearance. Just as I ducked to pass under the bridge myself there was a bang - bang - bang from behind my head and a gentle shaking of the boat.

I now know the top of the tiller pin is a few millimetres higher than the cabin roof and it touched the bottom of the rivets as we passed under the railway bridge. We passed under the downstream railway bridge with millimetres to spare also, but without the tiller pin touching so it must be a little higher.

On arriving back on the moorings in Bedford after our cruise to Kempston we found Mervyn, the River Inspector I had called about the low rope, standing on the bank, with his colleague Toby, talking to the canoeists who had also arrived. They quickly cut the rope down and the canoeists were left with words of advice about the placement of ropes.

Mervyn and Toby were full of helpful advice about the River. They explained that a Strong Stream Advice was imminent and advised us to stay put until it was lifted. There would be no problem with us staying on the 48 hour moorings for as long as that took.

Next weekend is the Bedford River Festival weekend and they were expecting several visiting boats but, with the Strong Stream Advice likely to last all week, we may be the only vising boat in Bedford.